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San Andres and Providence sound like reggae and calypso, like waves
that crawl over white-sand beaches and break against the coral reefs.
There are wooden houses with open doors and windows, and streets
throbbing with mischievous kids. Islands that bring back memories
of pirates, slaves, missionaries and adventure-seekers.
A Little bit of history
The archipelago of San Andres and Providence remained untapped
for a number of years, merely visited by Central America’s
Miskito Indians hoping to catch turtles during mating season.
Spaniards were the very first settlers –Columbus sighted
the islands on his fourth voyage- yet they showed no interest.
From 1629 on, puritan Britons started landing on the islets and
eventually turned them into safe havens to escape persecution
back home. Some of them coupled with black slaves and today we
can refer to a race of blue-eyed, blond-streaked-hair Negroes.
San Andres has no specialized areas with different kinds of items
and quality standards. Stores here intertwine with no prearranged
order as they are clustered in a small area that can be hoofed
up and down.
Providence
Five thousand inhabitants –mostly blacks- are the living
history that has evolved on this small island that the British,
the French, Spaniards, Africans and the Dutch fell head over heels
in love with. They all left their prints on an island now called
Providence and its neighboring Santa Catalina.
Providence was always the most coveted island of the archipelago
given its strategic location in the way of gold-filled galleons
leaving from America. Its mountainous relieve turned it into a
defensive stronghold and the abundance of water made it an even
more sought-after site. Several English pirates like Morgan fortified
the island and made it a launching pad for attacks and a bounty
hideaway. Today, not only its history remains very much alive,
but also a breed of hefty men with a diverse blend of ethnic features
and characteristics that usually coalesce in a mixture of dark
skin and blue eyes.
English survived as the official language and Protestantism as
the religion of choice. Wartime memories boil down to cannons
and forts, while calmness has now sat in for the bustling of yesteryear.
Providence is no doubt a genuine island. There are no cars and
only a coastal road takes you around that piece of land. I rent
a moped and hit the road easily, making stops to talk to people,
stare at the breathtaking landscapes or just to take a break.
There are autochthonous forests on the island, and the scarce
beaches are simply spectacular, especially Manzanillo Bay.
One afternoon I pass through Santa Catalina, hooked up to Providence
by a floating bridge bearing a suggestive name -Lover’s
Lane. You can’t turn around while you tour the entire island,
only a maritime passage on the left takes you straight to the
ruins of a pirate fortress that used to protect the island in
the past. By boat, a trip to Providence takes some 8 hours from
San Andres. Otherwise, a 20-minute flight in small planes owned
by Satena or SAM-Helicol airlines could be your other choice.
Its airport is the most picture-perfect terminal in all Colombia.
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